Case study: Patterns

Manufacturer

"...we often get patterns with pieces missing, patterns that don’t correspond to the toiles, samples with labels all over them that we then have to amend on the pattern before we can start the production docket..."

Both designers and manufacturers report that problems concerning patterns frequently disrupt the production process.

One of the most common problems is that patterns sent do not correspond with samples or toiles. This tends to be the case when adjustments have been made to the sample but not carried through to the pattern. Confusion is most likely to arise when there are lots of notes given explaining the amendments, without the sample reflecting those changes. Pattern discrepancies often arise when too many different people work on them (freelance pattern cutters, interns etc.) with no one single person responsible for checking the patterns before they are sent to the factory. Many manufacturers feel that they are simply left to resolve these pattern issues - although most point out that they will charge designers for this additional work. In most instances designers are happy for trusted manufacturers to make these amendments. However, where there is no established working relationship, this can be more problematic.

Other common issues with patterns include openings that are not large enough and incorrect patterns being sent for grading, resulting in all grades being incorrect. Problems like this cost time and money to rectify but are easy to avoid.

Top Solutions

• Rigorous checking of patterns prior to them being graded and sent to manufacturers
• Designer / production manager to look at pattern together with manufacturer prior to the start of production
• Inclusion of measurement specs for production

Relevant sections from the Fashion Toolkit:

• Code of Practice

• Garment Specification

• Production Schedule